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On my way to Günther Uecker's (b. 1930) studio in Düsseldorf, I manage to lose my way, and when I ask for directions a helpful passerby points past a twisting trio of Frank Gehry buildings and says, 'Take a right at Uecker Platz.' Günther Uecker may have the honour of having a whole square christened after him, but he's not a grand figure. When I...
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