Ocula's Top Art and Eating Spots for Beijing, Summer 2024

Despite being occasionally playfully labelled a ‘Desert of Gastronomy’, Beijing boasts a myriad of hidden culinary gems embedded within the local contemporary art scene. Ocula Advisory invited editor Shanyu Zhong, who has lived in the city for over a decade, to share her top picks for art spots and dining experiences to check out over the Beijing summer.

Beijing’s art scene is concentrated around the iconic 798 Art Zone, a decommissioned electronics factory characterised by its Bauhaus buildings.

Exploring this area often requires some walking. I suggest you enter 798 through the South Gate and proceed north to discover a lineup of notable galleries including Beijing Commune, CLC Gallery Venture and its project space C5CNM, Whitestone Gallery, the artist-run Cai Jin Space, Galerie Urs Meile, Magician Space, HdM Gallery, Hua International, and Tabula Rasa Gallery. If you take this route, then the best place to eat is Menglin’s Kitchen, a Sichuan style restaurant. It’s always worth trying the fried tofu!

I recommend two must-go galleries that might be tricky for newcomers to spot in 798. With its cavernous, door-less entrance, CLC Gallery is easy to miss as you walk by. Renovated by artist Jin Ningning, this unique space currently features Yang Guangnan’s vibrant wall assemblages and a large-scale, bridge-like installation. Then tucked off the street near the North Gate there’s Tabula Rasa Gallery, which showcases an immersive exhibition by Li Tao, leading you into post-apocalyptic scenes filled with machines for a truly unsettling experience.

The prestigious UCCA Center for Contemporary Art is on this route too currently hosting ambitious solo exhibitions by Hiroshi Sugimoto, Miguel Angel Payano Jr., and Liang Hao. It’s interesting to compare the cultural references in the monochrome sculptures by Chinese artist Liang Hao, who spent two decades in the US, with the mixed media paintings by Afro-Caribbean American artist Miguel Angel Payano Jr., who has been practicing in China for 20 years.

Alternatively, opt for a route through the small lanes. Begin at the No.2 North Gate and delve into the inaugural show of REFLEXION, featuring artists from Hu Wei, Lu Lei to Yan Bing. Then explore Star Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, M Woods Museum, SPURS Gallery, Galleria Continua, Hunsand Space, and Long March Space with its project space located in the next alley. Expedition Log at Long March Independent Project brings together a group of works exploring botanics – you’ll smell the scents of green Sichuan pepper and curcuma powder diffused by Liu Xinyi‘s installation, and you’re welcome to take a poster home! Wrap up your day at Hyundai Motorstudio Beijing, presenting the debut exhibition in China by artist duo Moon Kyungwon and Jeon Joonho.

Fuel your journey with a rejuvenating coffee break at TIANROAST COFFEE opposite to Star Gallery, a spacious cafe offering arguably the best classic and flavoured brews around 798 or Voyage Coffee near Beijing Commune for a relaxing open-air experience. Or enjoy Japanese-style ‘Western’ cuisine at NaNa, a favourite of Beijing’s art community and housed within the 798CUBE Museum. I always opt for the Omelet rice with chili tofu sauce.

After exploring the 798 Art Zone, you have the option to dedicate an entire day to this area or take a 10-minute cab ride to the nearby Caochangdi village, known for a group of red brick gallery buildings designed by Ai Weiwei. While many galleries have relocated, several noteworthy ones remain for exploration: INKstudio, a pioneering gallery dedicated to contemporary ink paintings, currently showcases Kang Chunhui’s vibrant work using mineral paint; and ShanghART, after almost one year of closure, reopens with STUDY II: Natural History, Alternative Knowledge and Deep Learning, a group exhibition curated by artist Shi Qing.

For a change of scenery closer to the city centre, don’t miss the Central Academy of Fine Arts Museum during the season. Take a leisurely stroll through the campus before entering the stunning building designed by the late Pritzker-winning architect Arata Isozaki, and dive into the likely crowded graduate shows to discover cutting-edge creativity and emerging talents. A 5-minute walk will lead you to Tanzhou Jiu Lou, an ‘external canteen’ for CAFA students celebrated for its authentic Hunan-style cuisine – perfect for fans of spicy food! Alternatively, you can try out Dulaity of Bayinbuluk for its authentic Xinjiang roast lamb and noodles.

‘Poetry Marathon’ project at Gallery Weekend Beijing. Photo: Shanyu Zhong.

For those departing from Beijing Capital Airport, make a stop at Blanc Art Space, situated within the Beijing Tianzhu Comprehensive Free Trade Zone, just a 20-minute drive from the airport. This area hosts leading galleries including White Space, Lisson Gallery, and MASSIMODECARLO. Don’t miss the multimedia exhibition by Christine Sun Kim and Thomas Mader at White Space, which explores the notion of attention and subtle emotions through indirect ways of communication such as gestures and facial expressions.

Main image: Beijing Dangdai Art Fair. Photo: Shanyu Zhong